Two trips to Dubrovnik

We have seen many beautiful towns and cities in Croatia over the last month, but anyone who has been to this country will probably agree with me that one city takes the cake: Dubrovnik. Founded 1,300 years ago by refugees from Greece, Dubrovnik (formerly called Ragusa) has had a rich history. Dubrovnik is a stunning walled city of stone buildings and pathways, set on the Adriatic Sea surrounded by islands. 

The city has had to be rebuilt twice, once after a massive earthquake in 1667, and again after the 1991/92 siege by the Yugoslav military. Both times their huge surrounding wall survived. I had the blessed opportunity to visit this enchanting city twice in the last month: once with Taylor, Logan and Melana; and again with Talia, Brad and Logan while Taylor remained in Split. 

Dubrovnik is a three hour ride by car from Split, our home base. Taylor, Melana, Logan and I left Split and headed South to Dubrovnik. Interestingly, Croatia's coastline is interrupted in the south by a section 5 1/2 miles long that belongs to Bosnia-Herzegovina. So along the way down to Dubrovnik, we hit a border crossing to leave Croatia and enter Bosnia, then a few minutes later another border crossing to enter back into Croatia. It's a simple procedure  of checking passports and we were aware of it ahead of time. No big deal...a few days later Melana, Taylor, Logan and I would purposely head deeper into Bosnia-Herzegovina to visit the gorgeous city of Mostar. But that's another blog entry to come.

About 45 minutes outside of Dubrovnik we stopped at a smaller walled town called Mali Ston. Just off the coastal road, on the Peljesac Peninsula, known for its good wine, salt pans (for sea salt, still being worked today) and the huge Ston walls (sometimes called the Great Walls of Croatia). 

Walls of Mali Ston.

Harbor in Mali Ston.

The town was completely deserted (it is off season), but we enjoyed a great lunch at a restaurant just outside the walls and right on the sea. They had huge aquarium tanks with live fish, mussels, oysters, lobster and more! Logan loved watching the fish through the glass tanks! 

We ordered a mussel salad (marinated shelled mussels tossed with tomatoes, onion and seasonings) served in a huge half shell. Beautiful presentation and delicious (we ate it before I remembered to take a picture)! We also got fried mussels, something I’ve never had before, and some grilled prawns (served in the shell, tasty but messy). The seafood was extremely fresh and delicious! At the end of our meal our server gifted us with two large bags of fresh sea salt panned right there on the Peljesac Peninsula!

We continued on our way to Dubrovnik, arriving just as the sun was setting, casting a gorgeous orange glow onto the boats in the harbor outside the city walls. 

We entered the gates, passing beneath a statue of the protector of the city, stationed above every entrance to guard the city from those who mean it harm. We stayed in a two-story flat in a 500-year-old building that looked out upon the main square on the Stradun (the street that runs through the center of Old Town). It had four single beds upstairs in the loft, and a kitchen, dining table and couch downstairs. It was the perfect location for our visit! 

Downstairs at our flat - I love the stone walls and wood floors!

View from our front windows, into the main square on the Stradun.

Our first evening, we walked around taking pictures around every corner, wowed at every turn by the beauty of the city. Logan loved watching and chasing all the stray cats! We made dinner at home, then went out for a warm, thick hot chocolate on the Stradun. 

Looking to the right out our windows, down the Stradun.

Melana, Logan and me. Out for an evening stroll and hot chocolate.

The next morning we headed out to walk the Dubrovnik wall. Encircling the Old Town is an uninterrupted wall running 1.2 miles long, reaching a maximum height of 82 feet. For a fee, you can climb up and walk the perimeter of the city for the most amazing views in all of Croatia (in my opinion). On the inland side of the wall you look out atop the red tiled rooftops of the town, peeking into the backyards of the stone homes full of orange trees and rubber plants rising up towards the sky. 

On the sea side you see waves crashing against the watch towers and Croatian flags waving in the wind. This was not a walk for a stroller (we were told it has over 800 stairs going both up and down along the walk), so we took our time as Logan goes slow driving his trucks and looking for kitties down below. The walk was great, and we were blessed with some gorgeous clouds as we took pictures along the way.

At the end of the walk we had built up an appetite for lunch. Taking advice from Rick Steves (he’s become a dear friend on this trip), we headed to a restaurant called Dalmatinos. We had a traditional Dalmatian appetizer sampler (prosciutto, cheese, olives), marinated octopus salad, ahi sashimi, and fresh cheese ravioli. It was all fabulous, but the highlight of the meal was the dessert - a caramelized baked pear in a sweet wine reduction. It was divine.

Later while Logan napped, Melana and I got some girl time and jewelry shopping in. Dubrovnik is known for their jewelry pieces which are modeled after traditional buttons that went on women’s clothing. They are also known for coral pieces. Melana and I both left with some jewelry, you can see mine below. 

When we returned from our shopping, Logan was still having a long and much-needed nap. Taylor and I headed out alone while Melana stayed in. We had fun exploring the city and window-shopping (without a toddler in tow). We caught the sunset on the harbor (the sun sets around 4:30pm here), and we enjoyed a relaxing drink in the square. Ahhhh, a nice break indeed!

Sunset in the main square.

The church in Dubrovnik is proud of its Treasury. It claims to have both a piece of the Holy Cross which Jesus was crucified upon, as well as one of his swaddling cloths from when he was a baby. While we take it with a grain of salt (no pun intended), we were still very interested in seeing these historic treasures. The morning we were to leave Dubrovnik, we made a trip to the church and its Treasury to catch a glimpse (unfortunately photos were forbidden during our viewing).

Dubrovnik's church at sunset.

On our way out of town we headed up the hill behind Dubrovnik called Srd (pronounced “surge”). Next to a napoleonic fortress, built in the early 1800s, we enjoyed great views of the walled city, and a huge cross atop the hill. The clouds and sunshine were spectacular and it was a great way to end our time in Dubrovnik!

My second trip to Dubrovnik was almost exactly two weeks later. After Melana left town, Taylor and I had over a week before Talia and Brad came to visit us. Talia and I met in 2001 while attending college at Cal Poly, San Luis Obispo. We have been close friends ever since. She and her husband, Brad, came to Europe to celebrate their two-year wedding anniversary, and to pay my family a visit in beautiful Croatia! I am so thankful they came halfway around the world to see us! 

Talia and Brad flew into Croatia and spent two days seeing the northern part of the country before coming to Split to see us for two nights. They were then headed south to Dubrovnik, and at the last minute Logan and I were able to join them (we picked up a car seat in Split). Their tiny rental car wouldn’t fit all five of us, so Taylor remained in Split for some relaxing alone time while I headed south for some much-needed time with my good friend! 

Before we left Split to head to Dubrovnik, we showed them around our neighborhood, Diocletian’s Palace, the Riva promenade, and some of our favorite food places and treats. I roasted chestnuts so they could try them for the first time, made a traditional Dalmatian appetizer platter, and we sampled Croatian wine and beer. We also shared with them the amazing Croatian honey we had purchased in Zagreb, which they enjoyed so much they later bought their own jar from a stand on the way down to Dubrovnik.

Diocletian's Palace on a very rainy afternoon.

On our way to Dubrovnik we stopped at the same restaurant in Mali Ston. I very much enjoyed being their “tour guide” to show them what I felt were the highlights of our previous trip to Dubrovnik. 

Outside the walls of Mali Ston.

On the Mali Ston harbor.

In Mali Ston we enjoyed a different sampling of seafood dishes, all amazing: mussel risotto served in a huge half-shell, steamed mussels in a wine and garlic sauce, and fried shrimp. Logan loved the aquarium tanks once again, and Talia and Brad left with a bag of fresh sea salt. 

In Dubrovnik I was pleasantly surprised to find it had been decorated for Christmas. We stayed in the same flat as before only on this trip a huge Christmas tree stood in the main square, just outside our window. The Stradun was strung with beautiful twinkling lights, and all the shop doors were adorned with greenery and oranges. It was a beautiful sight! 

The next morning we climbed the wall so they could get great views of the city and sea. I wanted to get some pictures together with Talia, despite the fact that I really didn’t want to do that walk with Logan again (sans stroller). But we joined them for a third of the walk and got some great pictures. 

I love this lady so much!

Logan and I left them to finish the wall on their own, and we headed downstairs to the Stradun for a mommy/son ice cream date. The weather was warm with broken clouds, a great day for an ice cream! 

The rest of the day was pretty low key. After Logan’s nap we all headed out to catch the sunset. We walked out to the harbor and out onto the jetty. Logan loved watching the waves crash against the side of the city walls. 

On our way back through the harbor we came across an area where they were setting up what looked to be a big ice skating rink, and they were testing a snow machine. After watching for a few minutes (Logan was very interested in the falling snow), a man walked up to us and introduced himself as the mayor of Dubrovnik. He said they would be starting their winter festival the next day with many activities for adults and children alike. He invited Logan to play in the falling snow. Logan happily rolled around on the ground and jumped up and down. There was a photographer snapping photos, and we later learned we had made their local news! 

Website to the  Croation news:

http://mobile.dubrovniknet.hr/galerija.php?id=34234

Website to their news, in Croatian: http://mobile.dubrovniknet.hr/galerija.php?id=34234 

We had dinner at the same restaurant I had gone to before, mainly because I wanted Talia and Brad to try that amazing baked pear. I had a delicious black ink seafood risotto, which stained my mouth but was worth it. Logan ate his entire bowl of fresh cheese ravioli. I was extremely disappointed to find out they were out of the baked pear dessert!

We wrapped up my second trip to Dubrovnik the next morning with a trip up mount Srd so Talia and Brad could see the great views (Logan and I waited in the car to stay out of the rain)! 

Talia and Brad enjoying looking over the edge of Mount Srd towards Dubrovnik.

It was great to see the city of Dubrovnik again, especially to experience it decorated for the holidays. I am so grateful that I got the extra time with Talia and Brad!

Fertile lands of Croatia on the way to Dubrovnik. 

My last photo of Dubrovnik before we left town. 

Logan loved visiting with Brad in Dubrovnik.